![]() The apparel assumed by these human tropes was invariably subjected to lovingly violent alteration. As an ensemble, the looks made up a collection of urban tribes. Held in a church, the Oratoire du Louvre, and with a soundtrack by Bizet’s “L’Amour Est un Oiseau Rebelle,” partially performed by Beaker from The Muppets, this was a show in which grandiosity was undercut by humor at every turn. There is an echo in the work of Glenn Martens’s Y/Project of Vivienne Westwood’s “Drunken Tailoring.” However, the distortions achieved by Martens are much more extreme, much more mind-twisting, much more perception-altered: Call it “Acid Tailoring,” maybe. And there will be more vinyl than that applied to the shoulder of that donkey jacket: Each musical artist is contributing a track to what will become a Yang Li LP. The collection was entitled Greatest Hits (Side A), which suggests Li is going to move onto some B-side rarities and more remixes come next season. There was a gothic Godflesh robelike parka and a hard-edged denim donkey jacket, a cool red-fringed black shirt, and a typically tough KTC-produced trench, and a fine satin-lined double-faced fish-tail parka. In harmony with these cocreators, Li applied mixed-up fan patches to the I’ll kill your bookmaker shirt moreover I love this back of biker shorts and starkly graphic white stenciling to the front of black suiting. That remix was achieved in collaboration with a roster of Li-loved musicians old and new: Genesis P-Orridge, Godflesh, Michael Gira, Psychic TV, Ramleh, Swans, Torturing Nurse, Tropic of Cancer, Yung Lean, and Zuoxiao Zuzhou. I’ll kill your bookmaker shirt, hoodie, tank top, sweater and long sleeve t-shirtĭuring a flying showroom appointment this morning, Yang Li explained that this menswear collection is a remixed and updated compilation of some of his and his client’s favorite past pieces. I had to add changes in level of wealth to the expression for savings. After thinking about this, I realized, that the expression for savings needed an additional element if it was going to include any changes in the level of wealth, I had to do just that. ![]() And that, I believe, is not only not true, it has led to all sorts of confusion. So we have a quandary: How can we have an economic theory that does not describe changes in the level of wealth? The fact is, that in typical explanations of the Savings equals Investment identity, one might come across in economics courses, it is implied that somehow this Savings that equals investment DOES include changes in the level of wealth. The pair of hands on the side of a garment were they signaling some sort of diplomatic handshake or a more affectionate clasp? “Both,” he replied. “I’m afraid the earth is going to die.” Did he think he would see this in his lifetime? “No, maybe our children and grandchildren.” And yet this wasn’t necessarily an exercise in fatalism. “The earth is going to be crazy, really crazy,” he said. Yamamoto’s approach seemed less conceptual this season, and his commentary was correspondingly direct. If nothing more, they were a reminder that he is not a minimalist. In that vein, some pieces could have been spared the myriad zippered vents and excess bands. Yamamoto said he experimented with these purely because he wanted to an aesthetic indulgence, essentially. Compared with the humble raw cotton and signature black gabardine, a black velvet grouping introduced a certain grandeur especially those pieces covered in pseudo-historical heraldic emblems. One of the two shirts styled overtop was marked up with the words mother f well, you get the idea. ![]() Masculine workwear jackets superimposed on suiting were interspersed with more ambiguous silhouettes, namely a dashing duo of full-length windbreakers in deep blue and yellow, worn like dresses. These talking points manifested as ultra-relaxed ensembles, some bearing near-nonexistent landscapes. Today, he reiterated his fear of an impending climate crisis, as well as his view that gender distinctions in menswear and womenswear have all but evaporated. The designer, too, usually doles out his thoughts judiciously, as though being forced to explain himself not only demystifies the process but goes against the interpretative aspect of what he creates. Only when poking around backstage after today’s show did the text “I hold you, you hold me” reveal itself on a loose-fitting shirt. ![]() Photos of a Yohji Yamamoto lineup never capture the I’ll kill your bookmaker shirt moreover I love this degree of details printed words, an artistic embellishment that you will discover on the clothes up close. ![]()
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